Food markets as drivers of urban food system transformation
Food markets as key infrastructures to ensure self-sufficiency, food security, and accessibility
The two-day event in Florence brought together local authorities from across Europe to explore, better understand, and exchange experiences on the role of short supply chains and local markets in strengthening self-sufficiency, food security, and access to food. The importance of resilient food systems is also highlighted in the latest report by IPES-Food, New Geopolitics of Food, which examines how many national food systems remain highly vulnerable due to their dependence on distant markets, fragile supply chains, and a small number of powerful exporters and corporations. The report argues that governments should move towards “resilient self-reliance” by strengthening domestic and regional food systems, reducing dependence on volatile global markets, and investing in agroecology, public food infrastructure, and fair, cooperative trade.
These themes were central to discussions throughout the two-day event. The City of Milan presented its experience in promoting farmers’ markets as a tool for transforming urban food systems. Far from being merely commercial spaces, farmers’ markets enable direct sales by agricultural producers while fostering economic, social, and cultural ties within communities. Through its Food Policy, the city has created favourable conditions for direct sales and now manages a network of 25 farmers’ markets, 10 of which are located on public land. By connecting urban consumers and producers through short supply chains, these markets offer an inclusive alternative to industrial food systems, which often marginalise producers, wholesalers, and market vendors, while also influencing consumers’ access to food. In this context, the City of Milan recently organised a series of National Dialogues on urban markets within the framework of the CLEVERFOOD project.
The City of Florence also provided an important example of how wholesale markets can act as strategic actors in urban food system transformation. In particular, Gianni Tapinassi, General Manager of Mercafir, the wholesale market of Florence, explained how the wholesale market is introducing innovative approaches to improve efficiency through digitalisation and sustainable management models, while also promoting action against food waste. Acting as a strategic logistics hub for solidarity flows, Mercafir facilitates the matching of food demand with surplus food supply, thereby playing a vital role in the implementation of food policy at the local level.
Across Europe: lessons learned and solutions in practice
Bologna's case study
The training on May 22 opened with an engaging thematic introduction by Francesca Monticone, post-doctoral researcher at the University of Barcelona, who presented the case of Bologna as a compelling example of how cities can rethink farmers’ markets as spaces for social innovation, sustainability and community building. Her presentation invited participants to reflect on several key questions:
- How can national/local policies support, or sometimes hinder, the development of farmers’ markets?
- What kind of infrastructure is needed to make these markets thrive?
- How can cities ensure affordability and accessibility for all residents?
Bologna’s experience offered valuable insights. Today, the city hosts 21 farmers’ markets spread across 20 market areas. Rather than operating under a single model, the markets are managed by six different associations, each bringing its own vision, values and approach to agriculture and community engagement.
A key aspect of Bologna’s model is the role played by the municipality. Through public calls for tender, the city invites interested organisations to manage market spaces. Selected organisers are granted management of the space for a minimum of five years, helping ensure continuity and long-term planning.
The discussion also highlighted the broader Italian regulatory framework. Farmers’ markets were formally recognised at national level through the 2007 Ministerial Decree on direct sales (MIPAAF 20/11/2007), which defined them as spaces where farmers can sell products cultivated or processed directly on their farms.
However, while the national framework provides a foundation, much of the practical regulation is left to municipalities. In Bologna, the 2022 local regulation marked an important step forward. The new rules extended market concessions to five years and allowed food service activities within market spaces, further transforming farmers’ markets into multifunctional community hubs. Importantly, the regulation also formally recognised the social value of farmers’ markets, acknowledging their role in strengthening trust between producers and consumers, supporting local development and promoting awareness of quality local food.
Bologna’s 2022 regulation is now considered a national benchmark. However, despite their growing social and environmental importance, farmers’ markets still lack adequate recognition within Italy’s broader strategic rural development policies.
Download the presentation to explore the case study in more detail.
Barcelona’s Green Commerce project
Elisenda Martínez Batalla, Coordinator for Restaurant Affairs at the Department of Commerce, Restaurants and Food of the Municipality of Barcelona, offered another inspiring example of how cities are reshaping local food systems through public policy and community-based initiatives. Within the framework of the Barcelona World Capital of Sustainable Food project, the city launched the strategy "Barcelona Feeds Proximity”, aimed at increasing access to sustainable and locally sourced food at affordable prices, while also ensuring fair remuneration for producers.
As part of this strategy, the municipality introduced the “Green Commerce” project, built around three main objectives: strengthening the visibility and identity of local food businesses through product quality and specialisation; promoting local and organic products as a way to reduce the city’s carbon footprint and address the climate emergency; and supporting the long-term viability of sustainable local agriculture and livestock farming.
The initiative seeks to reposition public markets as key reference points for fresh, high-quality and sustainable food, with a strong emphasis on local produce, organic products and direct supply chains connecting consumers and producers without intermediaries.
To help consumers easily identify sustainable and local products, the “Green Commerce” initiative introduced a dedicated signage system distinguishing different product categories. Labels are used to highlight, for example, certified organic products accredited by the CCPAE (Catalan Council of Ecological Agricultural Production), products produced with limited use of chemicals, antibiotics or hormones, locally sourced goods from Catalonia and the Mediterranean area, as well as fruit and vegetables either grown directly by producers or supplied by small local farms.
Each market stall receives signage specifically corresponding to its category, with visual materials designed to be displayed prominently within the establishment.
The initiative has already been widely adopted across Barcelona’s food markets: all 38 municipal food markets now include participating businesses.
Download the presentation to dive deeper.
Dublin's experience with food markets
Cliona Kelliher, officer at the Climate and Urban Resilience Department of the Dublin City Council, shared the experience of Dublin, where city markets are an integral part of the city’s cultural and historical heritage. Some markets date back to the 18th century, while others have emerged more recently, reflecting the evolving character of the city.
One of the longest-running markets in the city centre, the Temple Bar Food Market, was established in 1997 by a group of local farmers and food producers. In 2011, a retractable roof was installed in Meeting House Square, enabling the market to operate throughout the year regardless of weather conditions.
Markets in Dublin are regulated under the Casual Trading Bye Laws 2013, which are currently under review. Trading licences are issued annually for specific locations and operating times, and traders are required to hold public liability insurance.
Despite their importance, Dublin’s food markets face challenges including competition from supermarkets, high prices, limited sites, poor weather conditions, and relatively low government support. Improving their sustainability could involve more dedicated public spaces, better financial support, upgraded infrastructure such as covered areas, and stronger promotion of local food systems.
Download the presentation to find out more.
Wholesale markets and food redistribution initiatives
A study visit to the Florence wholesale market provided additional insights into market management and operations, particularly through the experience of Banco Alimentare della Toscana (Food bank), located within the Florence wholesale market.
For the past 30 years, Banco Alimentare della Toscana has collected surplus food and redistributed it to people experiencing hardship, acting as an important bridge between the profit and non-profit sectors. On one side are donor companies, while on the other are charitable organisations that distribute food to those in need.
Banco Alimentare della Toscana recovers around 5,000 tonnes of food each year. The organisation collects food that is perfectly safe for consumption but can no longer be sold commercially. These products are sourced from food processing companies, large-scale retail distribution chains, and collective catering services such as school and workplace canteens. The recovered food is then redistributed to partner charitable organisations operating across the region.
The organisation is also equipped to recover and transport frozen food products at temperatures of up to -20°C. Distribution takes place through a network of solidarity-based associations, providing approximately 6 kg of food per assisted person and supporting around 120,000 people annually. However, the level of need across Tuscany remains significantly greater.
The work requires extensive systems of traceability and food safety control to ensure that only safe and suitable food products are redistributed. Approximately 100 people work within the organisation, including individuals with disabilities and prisoners participating in alternative detention programmes, thereby contributing not only to food redistribution but also to social inclusion and labour market reintegration initiatives.
Food markets in Europe: different contexts, shared challenges
The case studies and discussion among participants highlighted the significant diversity of contexts across Europe and the differing conditions that shape the role and viability of food markets. In Mediterranean countries, markets often represent an important economic and social opportunity for small vendors and local producers, playing a vital role in fostering economic, social, and cultural ties within communities. In contrast, in Northern European countries, several factors, including lower year-round production of fruit and vegetables, climatic conditions, and different consumer habits, can make participation in urban food markets less attractive and less economically competitive for small-scale producers.
Various approaches and policy options were discussed to better motivate and support vendors, including improved infrastructure, stronger financial incentives, and greater institutional recognition of the social and environmental value of markets.
Both local food markets and wholesale markets demonstrate their strategic importance as key food infrastructures. They should therefore be more effectively integrated into food policies to support the transformation of food systems towards greater sustainability, food security, resilience, and accessibility.
The Food Partnership will continue to support more in-depth analysis and the sharing of practices on this topic.
Don’t miss the next online training on 17 June: a public webinar on Sustainable Public Food Procurement. Stay tuned for updates on further training and knowledge-sharing opportunities.